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Adapting purchasing practices, safeguarding livelihoods

Eine Gruppe sitzt an einem U-förmigen Tisch zum Workshop, eine Person sitzt in der MItte vor einem großen Plakat
News
20.06.2024

Adapting purchasing practices, safeguarding livelihoods

The recently adopted Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive at EU level, which will introduce further requirements for the private sector in addition to the German Supply Chain Due Diligence Act, as well as the ILO expert meeting on wage policy in February, provide new impetus for the topic of living wages.

In the Textile Partnership, the topic continues to be in the focus as well. Thus, the Partnership Initiative (PI) "Living Wage Lab 2.0" is committed to reducing the gap between current wages and living wages for textile workers in the supplier companies of participating Partnership members.  

To achieve this, the PI relies on close cooperation with suppliers on the one hand and on peer learning between the participating Partnership members on the other. Capacity building measures are used to raise workers' awareness of their rights and support them in asserting them. In addition to this, data on the impact of wages on workers is collected from suppliers to enable a data-based social dialogue. Factory management is also sensitized to the issue. The member companies, on the other hand, learn new strategies and tools in workshops and peer learning formats in order to develop and implement a strategy to close the wage gap.  

The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) is the implementation partner for the measures in the nominated production facilities of the Partnership members in Bangladesh, India and Pakistan. The workshops are facilitated by the implementation partner Ergon Associates. 

Workshop on strategy development  

The members of the Partnership Initiative came together in Stuttgart last week for one of the workshops. Having already shared various implementation models and associated challenges for the payment of living wages in a first workshop, this time the focus was on defining initial approaches for the development of a Living Wage Strategy. An input from Ergon on the main features of a robust living wage strategy and examples of practical implementation served as the basis for strategy development.

Eine Kleingruppe arbeitet an einem Tisch

The participants then worked in small groups - so-called solution labs - on various topics. These focused on: 

  • the concrete implementation of the strategy and cooperation with suppliers: What influence do companies have on the payment of living wages? How can companies ensure that the money actually reaches the workers?
  • securing internal approval within the company and creating additional added value: What measures can be used to achieve this? How can purchasing practices be adapted?

The results of the group work, together with the elements that a robust strategy should contain, were compiled in plenary at the end. Among other things, the close exchange with the purchasing department, transparency about wage costs, capacity building for social dialogue and collective bargaining as well as cooperation with suppliers and other procuring companies were named as important components. Based on the results, the companies will continue to work on their own strategy in the next step and exchange ideas in upcoming peer learning formats.  

Eine Gruppe sitzt an einem U-förmigen Tisch zum Workshop, eine Person sitzt in der MItte vor einem großen Plakat

The PI takes place as part of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, funded by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) and is jointly implemented by Bierbaum-Proenen, Chaps Merchandising, GREIFF Mode GmbH & Co. KG, Hugo Boss AG, Hch. Kettelhack GmbH & Co. KG, KiK Textilien und Non-Food GmbH, Ortovox Sportartikel GmbH, Vaude Sport GmbH & Co, Waschbär GmbH, 3FREUNDE, INKOTA Netzwerk e.V., Fairtrade DE, GoodWeave DE and GIZ. 

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Strengthening Supplier Capacity to Collect and Use Gender-Disaggregated Supply Chain Data

News
23.05.2024

Strengthening Supplier Capacity to Collect and Use Gender-Disaggregated Supply Chain Data

Collaboration with Ethical Trading Initiative kicked off

In April, the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles and the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) kicked off a joint project that aims at strengthening suppliers’ capacity to collect and use gender-disaggregated supply chain data. The new project starts where an earlier cooperation between both organisations had left off.  

 

The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) launched its Gender Data Initiative in December 2021 with the aim of developing an understanding on why collecting and analyzing gender dis-aggregated data is necessary for effective Human Rights Due Diligence (HRDD). The Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST) has been working, together with its members, on the topic of gender data since 2020. In March 2022, ETI and the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles developed the Gender Data Guidance together with Business for Social Responsibility (BSR), Fair Wear Foundation, the Dutch Agreement for Sustainable Garments and Textiles as well as Sedex. The document presents ways to collect gender-disaggregated data from supply chains based on BSR’s Gender Data and Impact (GDI) Framework and Tool.  

 

Gender equality became a focus topic for the PST in 2023. The work of the Textile Partnership is guided by relevant international standards and frameworks such as the ILO Conventions, the UN Convention on the Status of Women, the Gender Dimensions of the Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights and the 2030 Agenda.  

 

While disseminating the Gender Data Guidance, one of the key areas of feedback from brands was that suppliers lacked the capacity to provide accurate and reliable gender-disaggregated data. The absence of the same means that brands conduct less informed due diligence processes, affecting their ability to improve working conditions for women in the garment sector. The joint project aims at changing this: by implementing capacity building measures for suppliers and developing a business case for the collection of gender-disaggregated data, their capacity to collect, analyse and understand such data will be improved. The measures will be implemented at Indian supplier factories of PST members Hugo Boss and KiK, as well as ETI members The Very Group and Morrisons, who nominated their suppliers for this project. Activities include the conduct of a needs assessment in the participating factories, the implementation of a capacity building programme, and the development of guidance and learning products that can be used by other suppliers and companies.  

 

After the kick-off, the next step of the project is currently in preparation, which will be the needs assessment at the factories. There is also an ongoing exchange with the Partnership Initiative „Gender Data Gap“. In this context, a tool for collecting gender data in Tunisia is currently being developed. Thus, the outputs of both projects will be complimentary and help members of the Textile Partnership to capacitate further suppliers in collecting and correctly interpreting gender-disaggregated data.

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Annual Report 2023

Gib hier deine Überschrift ein

News
22.04.2024

Annual Report 2023

Looking back on a year with new requirements and the realignment of the Textiles Partnership

At the 10th members' meeting on 17 and 18 April, Linda Schraml, Head of the Partnership Secretariat, presented the 2023 annual report to the members. It shows that the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles was able to realise its realignment in 2023 despite the high demands placed on it:

  • Nine new members have joined the Textiles Partnership
  • Ten of the current eleven partnership initiatives have been developed
  • The steering committee was newly elected
  • The Partnership Initiative (PI) 'Living Wage Lab' is now entering its second phase in order to strengthen the rights of workers in supplier factories in Bangladesh, India and Pakistan
  • The Partnership Initiative (PI) 'Advancing Worker-led Agreements on Gender Justice', for example, supports the Dindigul Agreement by extending the agreement to other suppliers in the Indian region of Tamil Nadu
  • The project 'Strengthening factory grievance mechanisms in Pakistan' was successfully completed with a total of 25,500 workers participating in training courses on factory grievance mechanisms

In her greeting, Federal Minister for Economic Cooperation and Development Svenja Schulze emphasised that trust and strong partnerships are needed to overcome the crises and challenges of our time: You, the members of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, are leading by example. In refocusing the Partnership and putting even more emphasis on Joint Action you are taking an important step in the right direction. And in taking this step, you are doing what the Due Diligence Act requires. After all, the core element of this Act is not the reporting. It is more about taking targeted action in order to address shortcomings along the supply chain. By working together, you can achieve more than by going it alone. And you are able to deliver measurable social and ecological improvements along the textile supply chain.'

Svenja Schulze, Bundesministerin für wirtschaftliche Zusammenarbeit und Entwicklung, Copyright: BPA/Steffen Kugler

In addition, Chapter 4 provides updates on the four focus topics and the Partnership Initiatives on which the Partnership members are working together:

  • Living Wages and Purchasing Practices
  • Circular economy and climate protection
  • Gender equality
  • Grievance mechanisms and remedy

In 2023, all Partnership companies submitted at least their Tier 1 supplier data to the Partnership Secretariat for the first time. You can find out exactly how this worked and which data is particularly worth knowing in chapter 5.

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10th Members' Meeting

News
19.04.2024

10th Members' Meeting

The realignment goes into implementation!

Around 125 participants attended the 10th Members’ Meeting of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles in Berlin. They engaged in lively discussions in presentations, workshops and working groups and laid further important groundwork for the implementation of the strategic reorientation. One highlight was the exchange with representatives of rights holders from Bangladesh.

Head of the Textiles Partnership Linda Schraml opened the meeting with a look at the importance of the strategic realignment:

"The world has moved on since the Textiles Partnership was founded almost ten years ago. This has also brought about changes in the regulatory environment. In order to take these changes into account, we decided on a strategic reorientation at the end of 2022 and began implementing it in 2023. New requirements were placed on partnership members, e.g. for greater transparency in the supply chain. The implementation of the focus topics along the supply chain is becoming increasingly important. We are particularly proud of the ten of the current eleven Partnership Initiatives that were developed in 2023 and in which the members are actively involved in a wide range of topics."

In einer Q&A-Session mit dem neuen Steuerungskreis – vertreten durch Claudia Kersten, Berndt Hinzmann, Anna Ruechardt, sowie Anja Hanslik, Luise Scheuber und Moritz Blanke und in den anschließenden Austauschrunden ginge es u.a. um die Key Performance Indikatoren, die Gesetzgebungen und ein Stimmungsbild innerhalb der Akteursgruppen.

Achieving more together on the ground

Dr Bärbel Kofler, Parliamentary State Secretary at the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ), highlighted the Textiles Partnership as a pioneer compared to other industries and as a trailblazer for legal guidelines in her speech:

"In the past, the textile industry was often seen as a problem child. Today, however, it is in many cases a role model for other sectors. Even before the law, they showed how compliance and corporate due diligence work in practice. They implemented years ago what the German Supply Chain Act now requires. We will probably soon also have a European supply chain law. That is a great success.

In this regard, Kofler emphasized the need for the EU supply chain law and the importance of the multi-stakeholder nature of the alliance:

As the largest common market in the world, the EU needs uniform rules to ban human rights violations from supply chains." [...] In this respect, the EU Supply Chain Act offers companies important support in fulfilling the legal requirements. For example, by promoting joint risk analysis and remedial action by partnership members. The European directive will therefore further strengthen the role of multi-stakeholder partnerships. Because only if we build on partnerships based on respect and reciprocity will we achieve a sustainable and socially just textile industry.

The State Secretary emphasized how important it is to build on local structures in the production countries and to involve rights holders even more strongly and systematically in the Partnership’s work.

Greeting by Dr Bärbel Kofler, BMZ

Talking to and not about Rightsholders

Taking up Kofler's appeal, the members listened intently to the exchange with the two rights holders Tithi Afrin, program coordinator at the National Garment Workers Federation (NGWF) and Shahinur Rahman, consultant for FEMNET, GoodWeave International and Mondiaal FNV.

As programme coordinator of a workers' rights organization in Bangladesh, Tithi Afrin emphasized the importance of better working conditions, the payment of living wages and freedom of association. In this context, she presented the EIS (Employment Injury Scheme) program in Bangladesh. This forms a financial safety net for textile workers in Bangladesh in the event of a work injury. Afrin hopes that the EIS will be sustained for a long time and will be accessible to all textile workers in the future.

Rahman tried to raise awareness of the considerable differences in the power relations between the textile workers and their factories, but also between the suppliers and the brands. In this context, he appealed to the brands to use their position to advocate more strongly for rights holders vis-à-vis and within industry associations.

Both emphasized the need for legitimate and genuine trade unions and direct contact with their representatives. Afrin and Rahman appealed to the members that the brands must proactively approach workers' representatives and check their legitimacy in order to get an authentic picture of the working situation and to have the interests and wishes of textile workers in the production facilities included. 

The afternoon of the second day was therefore dedicated to in-depth, joint work on the four focus topics, the Bangladesh EIS and the empowerment of rights holders in various round tables and workshops.

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Strengthening the rights of refugee workers in the textile sector

Besuch in einer Textilfabrik
News
04.04.2024

Strengthening the rights of refugee workers in the textile sector

During a trip to Türkiye in March, the members of the Partnership Initiative (PI) "Access to Remedy for (Refugee) Workers" were able to see for themselves the work that project partner MUDEM is doing on the ground. Together, they are working on the project to promote access to effective grievance mechanisms as well as effective remedy and redress for (refugee) workers in order to sustainably improve working conditions in the Turkish textile industry. 

In addition to gaining an overview of the work that has been done so far, the aim of the trip was to create even greater visibility for the issue of access to remedy and to jointly discuss the long-term perspective of the cooperation. To this end, the group travelling to Türkiye, which consisted of representatives of the participating brands Adidas, Puma, Primark, Jefferys, C&A and NKD, MUDEM, the BMZ, GIZ Turkey and the Partnership Secretariat, completed a three-day program that reflected the multi-stakeholder character of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles and involved stakeholders from politics, the private sector and civil society.  

Cooperation across stakeholder groups is essential 

This became evident in one of the highlights of the trip, a roundtable with numerous local and international NGOs. The meeting was all about exchange and specifically focussed on the topic of remedy. Project partner MUDEM, a Turkish NGO that aims to strengthen the rights of refugees, presented its Workers Support Center (WSC) and sensitized the participants for the situation of refugees in textile supply chains. The WSC is a digital contact point set up by MUDEM that workers in textile production can use to request support in case of problems in the workplace. Primark also gave an input at the NGO roundtable to show from the perspective of a brand what remedy and redress can look like and what role brands (can) play here. Both presentations served as the basis for subsequent group work. Representatives from business, civil society and politics discussed what good redress can look like in different contexts, especially for vulnerable groups, what role is attributed to the various stakeholder groups and which interfaces can be better utilized. The three groups each dealt with the topics on which Mudem receives the most complaints on: work permits, wage issues and workplace abuse. Despite the different subject areas, the results of the group discussions showed overlaps: Cooperation between the various stakeholder groups is essential and should be intensified in the interests of rightsholders. Only by working together can the situation for all workers, and especially for vulnerable groups, in textile production in Türkiye be further improved.

The program also included exciting and inspiring meetings with other relevant institutions, such as the German Consulate General in Istanbul. Deputy Consul General Martin Graf welcomed the project group there and outlined the Consulate's activities at the intersection of human rights and business, among other things. This was followed by an in-depth exchange between the brands, the PST and Martin Graf, covering a range of topics including corporate due diligence, future supply chain legislations and the involvement of various stakeholders such as NGOs and trade unions. The project group was delighted with the great interest shown by the Consulate in the topic. Furthermore, a meeting with Turkish business association Türkonfed took place, which is currently setting up the Responsible Business Helpdesk (RBH) for Türkiye. The aim of the RBH is to raise awareness and provide advice to companies on standards and requirements in the area of due diligence.  

The Workers Support Center in practice 

In the spirit of close cooperation with the suppliers of the participating companies, the group visited suppliers of Primark, Puma and NKD on the second day of the trip. This enabled an intensive exchange with the respective management of the factories as well as an insight into the implementation of the WSC.. The suppliers Detay Textil and Türkmenler Socks have already established and integrated the Workers Support Center at their production sites. The members of the Partnership Initiative had nominated their suppliers at the beginning of the project and were now able to see the WSC in practice at the visited factories.  

The conclusion and another highlight of the trip was a workshop on the long-term financing of the project. In addition to the members of the Partnership Initiative, MUDEM had invited other companies to attend, including Lindex, Mango, H&M, Varner, Marks & Spencer and Inditex. The aim of the meeting was to look ahead to a long-term, self-financed perspective for the project: the Textiles Partnership has been supporting the Workers Support Center with funds from the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development since 2021 and until the end of 2024. However, in order to achieve long-term stability and foresight for the project, a sustainable solution is needed that is independent of funding tied to project terms. The long-term goal of such pilot projects is therefore to transfer them into local and self-financed structures. During the workshop, the brands expressed great interest in financing the project independently after the end of the project term. The Partnership Secretariat expressly supports this development.

At the end of the three-day trip, the participants were pleased with the results. Thomas Ahlers, representative of Primark, is also optimistic about the continuation of the Worker Support Center:   

"Supporting appropriate, independent and industry-wide grievance mechanisms is an integral part of our "access to remedy" approach. We have been working with Mudem and the Worker Support Center for several years. The trip to Istanbul and the meetings with the group, but also with other brands and NGOs, were very open and transparent. I believe that the right course has been set for the continuation of the Worker Support Center."  

The Partnership Secretariat would like to thank all members of the travel group for their valuable input and great commitment, as well as the various hosts for good conversations, inspiring insights, enriching discussions and delicious cay, coffee and baklava.  

 

 About the Partnership Initiative  

In Turkey, a large number of refugees, especially from Syria, are employed in the textile supply chain, some of them informally. They represent a particularly vulnerable group that is sometimes affected by multiple discrimination (e.g. legal status and gender). Many of those affected do not speak Turkish and have little or no knowledge of their rights. In addition to an awareness of their rights, these people need a low-threshold communication channel to draw attention to grievances in the workplace. 

This is where the PI comes in: During factory visits in the Turkish textile industry, refugees, but also people from the host society, are made aware of their rights and the use of grievance mechanisms is promoted. The visits are carried out by the Turkish partner organization MUDEM, which set up the "Worker Support Center". The WSC is a digital contact point and grievance mechanism that employees can use to request support for problems at the workplace. During the training sessions, employees receive information on the WSC, labor rights, employee rights, employer and employee obligations and other grievance mechanisms.

The Partnership Initiative is part of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, funded by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) and implemented jointly by Primark, C&A, NKD, Jefferys, IVY OAK, Kik, textilekonzepte, Adidas, Ceres, Puma and GIZ.

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It’s a wrap: Joint webinar series on EU Textile Strategy has come to an end

News
03.04.2024

It’s a wrap: Joint webinar series on EU Textile Strategy has come to an end

What started in September 2023 as a joint webinar series by the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, the Green Button and GIZ FABRIC has now come to an end – leaving the organizational team very satisfied with the outcome of the series. The six webinar sessions took participants on a journey through the complex landscape of upcoming EU legislations under the EU Textile Strategy. Important regulations that will affect companies in the textile sector were introduced in detail and the large numbers of participants in all sessions proved the relevance of the topic.

Each session featured various experts in their respective fields who shared their perspectives on what is to come and how stakeholders can prepare.

This way, the webinar series provided participants with:

• an introduction to the wider EU policy landscape and how upcoming legislations relate to international obligations

• a deep dive into specific legislative initiatives that will transform the textile and apparel sector in the coming years

• a better understanding of how these initiatives will likely impact companies and global supply chains.

Prepraing for what lies ahead - collaboration is key

The regulations that were presented in detail were: the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), the Waste Framework Regulation and Extended Producer Responsibility, the Ban of Products made with Forced Labour and the Green Claims Directive.

Even though none of these were final at the moment of presentation, the experts made it clear that there are many steps that companies already can and should take in order to prepare for the upcoming regulations. Furthermore, all experts underlined collaboration as a key strategy when preparing for what’s ahead. No company should do it on its own but rather join forces with others - including their suppliers.

Recordings available

If you have missed a session, or simply would like to rewatch it, you can find all sessions co-hosted with GIZ FABRIC on the Asian Garment Hub channel on Youtube. All other sessions will successively be added to the Youtube channel of the Green Button.

The organizational team would like to thank everybody involved for their valuable contributions and the tremendous interest from the audience in each of the sessions!

 

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Improving Grievance Management Systems in the textile sector

News
28.03.2024

Improving Grievance Management Systems in the textile sector

The Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST), along with its members Bierbaum-Proenen, CARE Deutschland, Deltex, deuter, ORTOVOX and Sympatex have kick-started a joint project to improve access to complaint mechanisms in China and Vietnam, including the deeper supply chain. 

Promoting access to grievance mechanisms and remedy is an elementary component of corporate due diligence and as such is also enshrined in the German Supply Chain Act. It makes an important contribution to equal opportunities and combating discrimination. To achieve this, the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST) has declared grievance mechanisms and access to remedy one of four focus topics and promotes all types of complaint mechanisms, depending on the specific context. In this context, the Partnership Initiative “Digital Complaint Management and Capacity Building“ was recently launched. It will be implemented with selected textile and garment suppliers in Eastern China and Vietnam. The primary goals of the project are to enhance the understanding of workers and managers regarding international and national labor standards and to identify and mitigate risks through effective (digital) grievance mechanisms.

 

Trainings for workers in China and Vietnam

Currently, preparations for the start of the activities in China and Vietnam are ongoing. As part of the initiative, suppliers will receive (digital) training for both workers and managers covering essential topics such as Occupational Health & Safety, Wages and Hours, Effective Worker-Management Communication and Grievances.

In China, suppliers will be able to monitor training completion rates and knowledge progression via a platform provided by project partner Quizrr. The Swedish EdTech company uses digital training solutions to educate employees in global supply chains on issues such as employment rights or workplace safety.

In Vietnam, the training program will be implemented in cooperation with the local non-profit organization Center for Development and Integration (CDI) at production partners from the deeper supply chain (Tier 2). CDI specializes in promoting labor rights in the textile industry with a particular focus on vulnerable groups. The trainings will take place as on-site training sessions, individually targeted to the specific needs of each factory.

"Empowering workers and ensuring access to grievance mechanisms is a fundamental pillar of our promise to promote fairness and accountability in our supply chain. Our dedication lies in enabling a workplace culture where every voice matters, and concerns are handled safely and reliably whether expressed directly or anonymously. With this project we aim to extend this commitment to our indirect production partners. This is an important step in mitigating risks in our deeper supply chain, and in strengthening the foundations of the partnerships with our production partners by enhancing collaboration and trust.

Collaborating with ORTOVOX, CARE, atlat GmbH, and CDI as a local partner, we aim to build robust structures for sustainable solutions. We are proud to have these partners at our side who support us with their expertise and network and continuously generate new and valuable impulses." Natalie Birke, deuter Sport GmbH

Establishing digital feedback mechanisms

Another activity within the project is the establishment of a comprehensive multi-channel digital worker feedback mechanism with suppliers, led by project partner Ulula in China, a human rights technology and analytics company, and in Vietnam the project partner atlat GmbH, offering low-threshold grievance channels for workers and a remediation and reporting platform. These mechanisms will complement the existing grievance system within factories, fostering increased trust, engagement, and satisfaction among workers, while simultaneously strengthening workplace relationships and minimizing social responsibility risks.

„Effective grievance mechanisms are an important precondition if we want to improve the working conditions in the textile sector. By introducing an external, effective grievance mechanism and sensitizing workers for their rights, we want to fight discriminatory structures and enable workers to claim compliance with labor standards.”, says Verena Ordemann, Sustainability Manager at Sympatex.

 

This project is part of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles and funded by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ). In China the project consortium of Bierbaum-Proenen, Deltex, Sympatex and GIZ will implement the project through the service providers Ulula and Quizrr. In Vietnam the project consortium of deuter, ORTOVOX, CARE Deutschland and GIZ will implement the project through the service providers atlat and local NGO CDI.

 

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Webinar-Series: Europe’s Green Transition in the Textile Sector – Green Claims

News
27.02.2024

Webinar-Series: Europe’s Green Transition in the Textile Sector – Green Claims

Hinweis: Diese Webinar-Reihe findet auf Englisch statt. 

The webinar series of The Partnership for Sustainable Textile and the Green Button on upcoming legislation under the EU Textile Strategy comes to an end!

Join us on 6th of March from 10am CET on for the last session of the webinar series:

TACKLING GREENWASHING: THE DIRECTIVE TO EMPOWER CONSUMERS FOR THE GREEN TRANSITION AND THE GREEN CLAIMS DIRECTIVE

 We will shed light on the Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition and the Green Claims Directive. Hear from experts and stakeholders what is coming and how to be best prepared.

Registrations are possible via this link. An overview of the webinar series can be found here. If you  are interested in the recordings of the session, please contact info@gruener-knopf.de or mail@textilbuendnis.com.

The Empowering Consumers for a Green Transition Directive aims at equipping consumers with the knowledge of how to contribute to the green transition. Among other things, it targets generic environmental claims such as eco-friendly, green or climate neutral. On 19/09/2023, the European Parliament (EP) and the Council reached a provisional agreement on the directive as part of the trilogue negotiations, which were thus concluded very quickly. The European Parliament plenary approved new EU rules on 17/01/2024.

The question of claims is tackled and operationalized more specifically in the Substantiating Green Claims Directive, which was published in March 2023 by the EU Commission. Currently, there is no comprehensive EU framework to tackle false or misleading environmental claims. The objective is to combat greenwashing, make green claims reliable and verifiable across the EU and thereby help consumers to make better informed and sustainable purchasing decisions.

In addition, the proposed directive addresses the jungle of environmental labelling schemes by putting a stop to new public labelling schemes. Any new private labelling schemes must prove that they are of added value compared to existing labels.

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Training zu Decent Work für indische Bio-Baumwollproduzent*innen geht in Pilotierung

News
23.02.2024

Training zu Decent Work für indische Bio-Baumwollproduzent*innen geht in Pilotierung

Im Rahmen der Bündnisinitiative „Bio-Baumwolle in Indien“ wurde im Februar ein wichtiger Meilenstein erreicht: die Umsetzungspartner Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) und Traidcraft haben ein Training zum Konzept der Decent Work für Kleinbäuerinnen und -bauern sowie Farmarbeiter*innen im indischen Bio-Baumwollsektor entwickelt und veröffentlicht. Das Training wird nun pilotiert.  

Das Besondere am Training: Üblicherweise berücksichtigen Standards für biologische Landwirtschaft neben den ökologischen keine sozialen Kriterien. Gerade Kleinbäuerinnen und -bauern arbeiten jedoch oftmals unter sehr schlechten Arbeitsbedingungen, die nicht den Anforderungen an menschenwürdige Arbeit (decent work) entsprechen. Deshalb setzen die neu entwickelten Materialien genau dort an: in 8 Modulen, die sowohl auf Englisch als auch auf Hindi zur Verfügung stehen, können die vier Kernprinzipien von Decent Work als Workshop vorgestellt werden:  

  • Schaffung von mehr und besseren Beschäftigungsmöglichkeiten 
  • Einhaltung und Absicherung der Arbeitnehmerrechte  
  • Ausbau der sozialen Sicherung 
  • Förderung des Sozialen Dialogs  

Die Inhalte wurden mit Branchenexpert*innen und lokalen Partnern von OCA explizit für den indischen Kontext ausgelegt, um die dortigen Bäuerinnen und Bauern im Baumwollsektor für ihre Rechte zielgerichtet zu sensibilisieren. In ersten Workshops werden derzeit mithilfe der Trainingsmaterialien Multiplikator*innen ausgebildet, welche im Laufe des Jahres selbst Workshops mit weiteren Bäuerinnen und Bauern sowie Farmarbeiter*innen durchführen sollen. Langfristiges Ziel des Trainings ist es, zur Verbesserung der Arbeitsbedingungen von Arbeitnehmenden im Baumwollsektor in Indien beizutragen. Damit kommt das Training vor dem Hintergrund der aktuellen Gespräche auf EU-Ebene über die neue EU-Lieferketten-Richtlinie zu einem richtigen Zeitpunkt.   

(C) OCA

Die Bündnisinitiative 

Mit der Bündnisinitiative (BI) „Bio-Baumwolle in Indien“ wollen die Mitglieder des Textilbündnisses zum Aufbau einer fairen, umweltfreundlichen und wirtschaftlich tragfähigen Lieferkette für Bio-Baumwolle beitragen. Die Entwicklung des Trainings zu Decent Work ist nur eine von verschiedenen Maßnahmen in den Bereichen Kapazitätsaufbau, Bewusstseinsbildung, Vernetzung und Beschaffung. Mit diesen will die BI rund 10.800 Baumwollproduzenten bei der Umstellung auf den Bio-Baumwollanbau unterstützen. Indem den Mitgliedern des Textilbündnisses der Zugang zu Bio-Baumwolle und die Umstellung auf Bio-Baumwolle erleichtert wird, trägt die BI auch zur Steigerung des Angebots an Bio-Baumwolle auf dem Weltmarkt bei. Als einer der wichtigsten Produzenten von Biobaumwolle und als das Land mit den größten Umstellungsflächen für Baumwolle hat Indien ein vielversprechendes Potenzial, eine langfristige Rolle in diesem Bereich zu spielen. 

Die BI wurde durch eine strategische Zusammenarbeit zwischen dem Bündnis für nachhaltige Textilien, dem GIZ Globalprogramm Nachhaltigkeit und Wertschöpfung in landwirtschaftlichen Lieferketten und dem Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) ins Leben gerufen und findet im Rahmen des Bündnis für nachhaltige Textilien statt. Es wird vom Bundesministerium für wirtschaftliche Zusammenarbeit und Entwicklung (BMZ) gefördert und gemeinsam von Brands Fashion GmbH, C&A Mode GmbH & Co. KG, Esprit Europe Services GmbH, Fairtrade Deutschland e.V., Formesse GmbH & Co. KG, Global Standard gemeinnützige GmbH (GOTS), H&M Group, s.Oliver Group, Tchibo GmbH, Südwind und der GIZ GmbH umgesetzt.

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5th Session of Webinar-Series: Europe’s Green Transition in the Textile Sector

News
19.02.2024

5th Session of Webinar-Series: Europe’s Green Transition in the Textile Sector

Hinweis: Diese Webinarreihe findet auf Englisch statt

Join the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, the Green Button and FABRIC for the fifth session of our six-months webinar series to learn more about the EU’s Textile Strategy and how it will affect the textile and garment sector. Hear from experts and stakeholders about what’s coming and how to be best prepared.

In the session on 28th February, 10am – 11:30 am CET, we will take a closer look at the current proposal on a future without modern slavery together with our experts Anna Cavazzini (MEP The Greens/EFA), Libby Annat (Due Diligence Design) and Clemence Aron (Mekong Club).

Registrations are possible via this link. An overview of the upcoming webinar sessions can be found here.

In September 2022, the European Commission proposed a “Regulation to prohibit products made using forced labour on the European Union internal market” and underlined the EU’s efforts to ban all products made under such conditions – including child labour – for domestic consumption, export and import. After the European Parliament adopted its negotiating position in November 2023, the Council of the EU followed in January 2024 and paved the way for the interinstitutional negotiations (“Trialogue”) to begin.

In this seminar, we will dive into the proposed regulation and highlight its impact on the textile sector. We will particularly explore how brands can prepare for the regulation and identify strategies and tools to identify, address and mitigate risks associated with forced labour in supply chains.

 

Six-month webinar series

You want to know more about the legislative framework under the EU Green Deal and how it could initiate change and affect your business? Join us for a series of six webinars on upcoming legislation under the EU Green Deal and the EU Textile Strategy!

The webinar series will provide you with:

  • an introduction to the wider EU policy landscape and how upcoming legislations relate to international obligations
  • a deep dive into specific legislative initiatives that will transform the textile and apparel sector in the coming years
  • a better understanding of how these initiatives will likely impact companies and global supply chains.

Please click here for more information on the series and registration.