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More than 25.500 workers participated in trainings on factory-internal grievance mechanisms

News
31.05.2023

More than 25.500 workers participated in trainings on factory-internal grievance mechanisms

The project “Strengthening factory-internal grievance structures in the Pakistani textile industry” is coming to a successful end.

The projectwas launched in February 2021 with the aim to support suppliers in setting up or further develop the functioning of internal complaints structures, and to enable management and workers to solve incidents and grievances through dialogue (see Fairtrade´s news article at the beginning of the project). Grievances could concern aspects such as e.g. insecure work environment, forced over-hours, insufficient wages, harassment etc. Now, with the end of the project, complaints committees in 16 factories have been established and 303 master trainers have trained more than 25.500 fellow workers in 640 individual orientation sessions.

The Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST), the GIZ Programme TextILES, Fairtrade Germany and Partnership member companies Primark, Takko, HUGO BOSS, Kettelhack and tex idea jointly implemented the project. The project set-up was based on the experiences and practices of the Fairtrade Textile Programme, which has been successfully implemented since 2014 in India. The project started with a training seminar in Dubai at the end of March, where Fairtrade trainers from India shared their knowledge with the selected trainer team in Pakistan. Meanwhile the five PST members started conversations with their suppliers regarding their participation in the project.

Kick-off meetings in Punjab and Karachi

In total, the companies selected nine factories. Seven more where nominated by the GIZ Programme TextILES, which has long-standing experience in working with the Pakistani textile industry on sustainability topics. The participating suppliers were invited to a kick-off meeting either in Punjab or Karachi in order to learn about the project details, the legal situation in Pakistan as well as the basics of effective grievance mechanisms. These two joint meetings were well received by the stakeholders: „The Roll Out Plan has provided us with a clear picture of the project's execution. We now understand the definition of a grievance and when and how it should be heard, addressed, or resolved.” (Manager HR & Compliance, participating supplier)

Establishment of grievance committees in almost 16 factories

The local trainer team then carried out baseline and pre-assessments in all 16 factories in order to get an idea of their internal situation on grievance mechanisms. This data showed that a majority of the factories had not had any grievance committees in place before the start of the project. Similarly, in almost none of the factories the workers had been aware of these committees and its functions. Only in one single factory a grievance cases record had been available. This was followed by the set-up and training of grievance committees at all 16 factories. All of them received trainings in order to build capacity and awareness about their roles and responsibilities. The committees also received materials such as templates for filing complaints and for documentation both in local language and English.

In order to make sure that all workers were aware of the new structures, the team conducted various sessions to train 230 male and 73 female workers as master trainers. Unlike in other textile and garment manufacturing countries, the workforce in Pakistan is mostly male. The master trainers acquired knowledge on workers’ rights and the grievance procedure and developed roll out plans with the aim to forward their knowledge to the whole workforce. In a total of 640 individual orientation sessions, these 303 master trainers together passed on the information to more than 25.500 fellow workers – done on the factory floor / training center during or in-between shifts.

Project participants support the continuation of the project

The local coordinator carried out post assessments in November and December 2022 . The result: In all 16 factories complaints committees were established and members of these committees and the respective procedures were known among the workforce. To round off the project, the local trainer team invited the management of all participating suppliers to several exchange meetings in Punjab and Karachi in order to present their learnings and results and to share some experiences. All participants showed great openness and commitment. Further, an external evaluation was conducted in order to assess the impact of the project intervention. Results show that all participating factories have established grievance committees and all members of those were trained on their roles and responsibilities. Almost all of the workers (more than 90%), that were randomly selected for interviews, confirmed to be very satisfied or satisfied with the newly set up grievance mechanism and some interviewees gave examples of specific changes after the set-up:

“I think and believe that grievance management system is more beneficial for the women workers […]. The impact of the system that I see that women workers pointed their concerns to grievance management committee about less facilities and rest options during break hours and now women in our factory has like separate prayer area designated for women, day care center established for women who have minors, specified women canteen area in the factory and all this happened after the formation of grievance management committee and when concerns of women were highlighted. We can confidently say that grievance management system minimized the inequalities for the women workers.”

“I genuinely found this whole GMP journey full of learning opportunities which are helping us strengthen our internal grievance management system functionality and its effectiveness at ground level. Throughout the process, I have witnessed people's engagement in this well-structured program from kick-off sessions to its implementation program in an unconventional manner. It will certainly boost our confidence and level up our grievance management through the knowledge imparted by the competent and experienced trainers of GIZ and Fairtrade specially Mr. Shakir who was a great lead support across the process.” (Sr Manager System & Compliance, participating supplier) 

The project was jointly financed through contributions from GIZ, the five Partnership companies and Fairtrade Germany. In regular meetings, the companies, GIZ and Fairtrade Germany came together to discuss the project progress. While this project phase is now coming to an end, the group already agreed that the positive resonance calls for a continuation of the great work on the ground. “It is great to see that the intervention was relevant for the factories and brought some immediate changes for the workers. Now we call on companies and factories alike to continue the work to improve working conditions through grievance mechanisms and further instruments. We are ready to support through our Fairtrade Textile Programme and Standard”, Dr. Bettina von Reden, Head of International Projects and Partnerships at Fairtrade Germany said.

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Jahresbericht 2022

News
02.05.2023

Jahresbericht 2022

Rückblick auf ein Jahr mit multiplen Krisen und der Neuausrichtung des Textilbündnisses.

Beim Arbeitstreffen am 26. April stellte die Leiterin des Bündnissekretariats Linda Schraml den Mitgliedern den Jahresbericht 2022 vor. Er zeigt, dass das Textilbündnis auch 2022 wieder eine Menge erreicht hat. Hier nur einige Beispiele:

  • 12 neue Mitglieder sind dem Textilbündnis beigetreten.
  • Das Projekt zu Produktklonen ging in die zweite Phase – diesmal wurden Hemden und Jacken auf ihre Recycling-Fähigkeit untersucht.
  • 33 Bündnismitglieder setzten ein Zeichen zur Beendigung von Gewalt und Belästigung in der Arbeitswelt und riefen die Bundesregierung auf, das ILO-Übereinkommen 190 zu ratifizieren.
  • Mit mehreren Projekten und Kooperationen setzen wir uns für Beschwerdemechanismen und Abhilfe​ ein, unter anderem in Pakistan und der Türkei.
  • Und in Indien unterstützen wir Kleinbauern und Kleinbäuerinnen, von konventionellem auf den Bio-Anbau von Baumwolle umzusteigen.

Im Grußwort betont Staatsministerin Dr. Bärbel Kofler (BMZ), Multi-Stakeholder-Initiativen wie das Textilbündnis „können Unternehmen bei der ambitionierten Umsetzung verbindlicher Vorhaben unterstützen. Gleichzeitig geht das Textilbündnis deutlich über gesetzliche Mindestanforderungen hinaus und ergänzt dort, wo ein Gesetz allein keinen strukturellen Wandel bewirken kann. Das Textilbündnis bietet seinen Mitgliedern eine wichtige Plattform, um sich zu aktuellen Herausforderungen auszutauschen und sie gemeinsam anzugehen.“

 

Dr. Bärbel Kofler, Parlamentarische Staatssekretärin (BMZ), Copyright: BPA/Steffen Kugler
Reiner Hoffmann bei der Textilbündnis-Mitgliederversammlung 2022, Copyright: Textilbündnis

Und SDG-Botschafter Reiner Hoffmann wirbt in einem Gastbeitrag für gute Arbeit weltweit: „Menschenwürdige Arbeit, faire Löhne und gute Arbeitsbedingungen sind eine Grundvoraussetzung für ein Leben in Würde und Wohlstand. Nur durch eine soziale Arbeitswelt gelingt gute Arbeit weltweit. Dafür brauchen wir eine nachhaltige Transformation globaler Lieferketten.“

Darüber hinaus gibt es in Kapitel 6 Updates zu den vielfältigen Themen, an denen die Bündnismitglieder gemeinsam arbeiten:

  • Living Wages and Purchasing Practices
  • Circular Economy
  • Klima
  • Gender equality
  • Interview zum Dindigul Agreement
  • Grievance mechanisms and remedy
  • Wastewater Management
  • Bio-Baumwolle
  • Man-made Fibres

„Advancing Gender Justice in Asian Fast Fashion Supply Chains“ ist der Titel eines Interviews mit Thivya Rakini, Präsidentin der Tamil Nadu Textile and Common Labour Union (TTCU) und Nandita Shivakumar von der Asia Floor Wage Alliance (AFWA). Darin gehen die beiden Frauen auf das Dindigul Agreement ein, das erste rechtsverbindliche Übereinkommen zu Geschlechtsspezifischer Gewalt in Asien.

In diesem Aktuelles-Beitrag lesen Sie mehr über das Dindigul Agreement.

Nandita Shivakumar und Thivya Rakini beim Textilbündnis-Arbeitstreffen 2023.
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Towards decent work for all

News
25.04.2023

Towards decent work for all

Asia’s textile industry 10 years after Rana Plaza

Tuesday, 25 April 2023 | 9:00 AM – 1:00 PM (CEST)
GIZ Representation | Reichpietschufer 20 | 10785 Berlin, Germany and virtually (hybrid event)

Ten years ago, on 24 April 2013, the Rana Plaza building collapsed, killing over 1,000 people. Just a few months earlier, in September 2012, a fatal fire killed more than 250 workers at the Ali Enterprise textile factory in Pakistan. These terrible disasters cast a harsh spotlight on the dark side of the global textile supply chain. It generated a surge of action, with activist groups and civil society organizations lobbying for better health and safety conditions for garment workers.

In Bangladesh, the Accord on Fire and Building Safety (ACCORD), a legally binding agreement aimed at ensuring that garment workers have safe workplaces, was established, succeeded by the Ready Made Garment Sustainable Council (RSC) being set up in May 2020. In Germany, the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) launched the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles as well as the state-run textile certification label Green Button.

BMZ is hosting this event to highlight the improvements in Asia’s textile industry and to discuss remaining challenges. Parliamentary State Secretary to the Federal Minister for Economic Cooperation and Development Dr. Bärbel Kofler will be discussing these questions together with other high-level speakers.

The event will take place in Berlin and will be streamed live. For the latest information on the event, please send an email to decentwork@greenstorming-event.de. You can access the live stream via this link on April 25: Decent work for all: Asia’s textile industry 10 years after Rana Plaza.

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Working Meeting 2023, April 26

News
26.04.2023

Working Meeting 2023, April 26

Change of Perspective

Am 26. April 2023 findet im artloft.berlin das diesjährige Arbeitstreffen des Textilbündnisses statt. Bündnismitglieder sind wie schon im letzten Jahr eingeladen, Themen vorzuschlagen, an denen sie zusammen mit den anderen Mitgliedern in Workshops arbeiten möchten.

Die Veranstaltung steht unter dem Motto Perspektivwechsel. Bei einem Panel geht es zum Beispiel darum, wie einkaufende Unternehmen Rechteinhaber*innen bei Zulieferern und in den Produktionsländern besser in ihren Geschäftspraktiken berücksichtigen können. Es diskutieren:

  • Nazma Akter, Founder and Executive Director Awaj Foundation/ President Sommilito Garments Sramik Federation/ Co-chair of Asia Pacific Women’s Committee of IndustriALL Global Union (NGO/trade union BGD)
  • Thivya Rakini Sesuraj, President Tamil Nadu Textile and Common Labour Union
  • Padma-Dolma Fielitz, German Institute for Human Rights
  • Tianne Groeneveld, Head of Human Rights, Tchibo GmbH

Darüber hinaus gibt es einen Input zum Thema „Worker-centred instruments to address workplace related risks and harms – Dindigul Agreement and Accord“. Das Textilbündnis plant, das Dindigul Agreement zu unterstützen, das erste rechtsverbindliches Übereinkommen zu Geschlechtsspezifischer Gewalt in Asien. Mehr dazu in diesem news article.

Agenda

Schon am Vorabend können sich die Bündnismitglieder bei einem gemeinsamen Abendessen austauschen und vernetzen.

Mitglieder finden weitere Informationen zum Event und zur Anmeldung im Members area:

Externe, die gerne am Arbeitstreffen teilnehmen möchten, wenden sich bitte an mail@textilbuendnis.com.

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Webinar on Employment Injury System Pilot Project in Bangladesh

News
15.03.2023

Webinar on Employment Injury System Pilot Project in Bangladesh

Pilot Project for a social security system

The „Employment Injury Scheme“ has been paving the way to introduce a long overdue social security system for workers in Bangladesh since 2021. If occupational accidents lead to permanent disability or even death, workers or their families are to receive payments in the form of pensions.

Brands sourcing in Bangladesh campaigned to ensure that workers in supply chains receive effective support in the event of labour-related injuries. So they initiated the EIS.

In September 2019, a decisive step towards adequate protection was taken: the government of Bangladesh, the ILO and the German Social Accident Insurance (DGUV) agreed to initiate a Pilot Project for an EIS for the RMG sector. It was agreed that the ILO and GIZ would work closely together to set up the administrative processes. They are also to assist in ensuring that a permanent, legislative EIS is established. The EIS Pilot was officially launched on 21 June 2022 and will run for 3 to 5 years.

The Pilot Project consists of two components:

  1. Data collection and capacity building on occupational accidents, occupational diseases and rehabilitation based on a representative sample of enterprises
  2. Risk sharing for long-term benefits: Payment of ILO-compliant compensation in the event of permanent disability or death for the entire export-oriented RMG sector.
How brands and retailers can get involved

Silvia Popp from GIZ's project Social Protection in Bangladesh presented the EIS Pilot in a webinar on 06 March, attended by more than 20 members of the Textiles Partnership. She also discussed how brands and retailers can contribute to the success of the EIS pilot:

  • They contribute to the financing of the project.
  • They support selected national suppliers.
  • They are in constant exchange with suppliers, especially in terms of communication in the form of campaigns. This is to ensure that workers are aware of the EIS Pilot.
Background

Bangladesh is the second largest garment manufacturer in the world. Despite this, it is the only country in the industry that does not have a formalised system for protection and compensation in the event of occupational accidents. There are globally agreed minimum standards for occupational injuries to which workers are entitled. Until now, workers in Bangladesh have not received these benefits. This should change with the EIS.

It is important to note that the EIS Pilot is funded by the participation of brands. Therefore, the EIS Pilot calls on companies to participate in order to provide benefits to Bangladeshi workers in case of accidents at the work place.

Contact

If you would like to get involved with the EIS Pilot or would like more information, please contact us at mail@textilbuendnis.com.

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Textiles Partnership plans to support the Dindigul Agreement

News
08.03.2023

Textiles Partnership plans to support the Dindigul Agreement

First legally binding agreement on gender-based violence in Asia

In April 2022, the Dindigul Agreement, the first legally binding agreement on gender-based violence in Asia, was signed. H&M, a member of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST), is one of the signatory, as well as PVH, GAP, the women-led Tamil Nadu Textile and Common Labour Union (TTCU) and the local supplier Eastman Exports. The agreement received much attention in the media, which called it a "landmark agreement".

Gender-based violence is a widespread problem in production facilities in the textile industry. In early 2021, 21-year-old Jeyasre Kathiravel, who worked at Natchi Apparels, an Eastman Exports factory, was murdered. The young woman belonged to the lowest group of Hindu society (Dalit). In response to the murder, colleagues and other women formed the Justice for Jeyasre campaign. They successfully called for change. The aim of the Dindigul Agreement is to put an end to gender-based violence at Natchi Apparels. To this end, training is to be offered and internal grievance mechanisms (ICC and shop floor monitors) are to be established. In addition, women, especially Dalits, are to be promoted to management posistions. The agreement is named after the region in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu.

Local organisations exchange with PST members

The Dindigul Agreement also caused the interest of PST members: In June 2022, the working group on gender equality organised an exchange with TTCU and the supporting organisations Asia Floor Wage Alliance (AFWA) and Global Labour Justice (GLJ). The PST members learned how the agreement was developed, where the implementation priorities lie and what the different roles and responsibilities of the signatories are.

At the OECD garment forum in February 2023, the Textiles Partnership co-organised the side session „Advancing Gender Justice on Asian Fast Fashion Supply Chains: Learnings from the Dindigul Agreement”. Thivya Rakini, President of the TTUC, reported on the first learnings and results of the implementation: Already one year after the agreement came into force, workers report that they feel safe at work. In addition, the number of grievances has increased - a sign of confidence in the mechanisms that have been established since then. Luisa Scheuber from the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) and Gisela Burckhardt from FEMNET were also on the panel of the side session and promoted support for and expansion of the agreement.

Luisa Scheuber (BMZ): "Current approaches are reaching their limits. Many companies and organisations focus on awareness-raising and training. This is important. Only if women know their rights, they can demand them. But training alone does not bring about change. This requires, among other things, access to trade unions, a strong role for women in companies and trade unions, and a functioning social dialogue."

This is also covered by the Dindigul Agreement: it strengthens the women-led TTCU union and ensures access to trade unions for the women of Natchi Apparels.

Partnership Initiative to support the expansion of the Dindigul Agreement

Good work worldwide is a particular focus for German Development Minister Svenja Schulze and German development cooperation. An important key to this is freedom of association and strong trade unions. In addition, the Ministry recently announced that key measures for good work worldwide are economic empowerment of women as entrepreneurs, managers and employees, as well as labour market policies that contribute to gender equality.

SDG Ambassador Reiner Hoffmann: "Decent work, fair wages and working conditions are a prerequisite for a life in dignity, for a life in prosperity. Only through a socially acceptable world of work and in particular the empowerment of women can good work succeed worldwide."

Therefore, the Partnership Secretariat and the two PST members BMZ and FEMNET are planning to support the Dindigul Agreement with an Partnership Initiative. Other PST members are to participate. The aim is to achieve concrete improvements for women and to create working conditions in which they do not have to fear gender-based violence and discrimination. To this end, the participants want to extend the Dindigul Agreement to other suppliers in the Tamil Nadu region and possibly beyond. The Partnership Initiative would also contribute to the PST focus topics of gender equality .

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The Supply-Chain Knock-on Effects of the German Supply Chain Act

News
06.03.2023

The Supply-Chain Knock-on Effects of the German Supply Chain Act

Webinar, 30 March 2023, 10 am CET, online, in English

On January 1, 2023, the German Due Diligence in Supply Chains Act (LkSG), came into force, requiring companies in Germany to carry out human rights and environmental due diligence. As part of the law, companies must establish effective risk management to identify, prevent or minimize risks of human rights violations and damage to the environment. The law sets out what preventive and remedial measures are necessary in their own business and along their supply chains, and obliges them to have complaints procedures in place and regular reporting. It initially applies to companies in Germany with at least 3,000 employees, with the employee threshold dropping to 1,000 in 2024. The law also applies to German subsidiaries of foreign companies if the subsidiary exceeds the above thresholds and has its registered office in Germany.

Businesses supplying to companies that fall under the law, are likely to receive more requests for information from their German customers. Against this background, it is important for companies to prepare for requests from large customers in Germany and to learn about the information they will ask for in order to demonstrate compliance with the German Supply Chain Act. In short, ensuring due diligence and documenting adherence to labour, health and safety and environmental legislation will become increasingly important to do business with companies in Germany. Being prepared, therefore, makes business sense.

Supported by the German Governments’ Helpdesk on Business and Human Rights, this webinar will discuss possible effects of the German Due Diligence in Supply Chains Act on companies that the law does not directly apply to. amfori and the German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST) will further highlight how their tools can help businesses supplying to German companies in meeting and demonstrating adherence to international labour and environmental standards.

Co-hosted by amfori and the PST, this webinar is the second of a series of webinars on the obligations under of the German Supply Chain Act and practical tools that can help companies in meeting their due diligence obligations.

Registration

Webinar Series on the German Supply Chain Act: Requirements and Tools for Companies

Co-hosted by amfori and the German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST), this webinar series focuses on the obligations under the German Supply Chain Act and practical tools that can support companies – both directly or indirectly affected by the legislation – to meet their due diligence obligations. 

Each webinar will address a specific due diligence step or criteria, and highlight corresponding resources and tools for businesses. It also aims to serve as a platform for dialogue between companies and stakeholders surrounding the implementation of human rights and environmental due diligence.

For more information, please contact Franzis Wimmer, amfori Stakeholder Engagement Advisor at Franzis.wimmer@amfori.org.

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Update on the call for proposals: selection of projects

News
06.03.2023

Update on the call for proposals: selection of projects

Six project ideas on grievance mechanisms, gender equality and circular economy

For the first time, the Textiles Partnership organized a call for proposals. The aim of the call for proposals is to support Partnership members and other cooperation partners in fulfilling their individual social and ecological due diligence obligations in their own supply chains and to make an impact on-site. The proposals should relate to at least one of the PST focus topics .

By the deadline of 14 February, PST members submitted these six project ideas:

Grievance mechanisms and remedy
  • Digital grievance management and capacity building
Gender equality
  • Capacity building for gender justice with microlearning
  • Evaluate and visualisation of missing survey data with subsequent development and application of a scalable tool to detect and process-related reduction of gender inequalities
  • Women Workers Health Cafés in Indonesia
Circular Economy
  • ‘Circular Design Made in Bangladesh’ Platform
  • CircularDown
What comes next
  • Until 14 March: The strategy committees and the BMZ comment on the concepts
  • By the end of March: Consolidation of the evaluation and commenting
  • End of March/beginning of April: announcement of the winning projects
  • April 26: Presentation of the projects at the PST Working Meeting
  • By May/June: Finalisation of concepts and contract preparation
  • May/June: Start of implementation

Here you can find more information on the Call for Proposals.

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Review-Process is starting on 1st April

Logo TexPerT, Textile Partnership Performance Tool
News
02.03.2023

Review-Process is starting on 1st April

Information and timeline

On 1 April 2023, the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST) launches the Review Process by which PST members report every two years on the implementation of their due diligence obligations. They are given until 31 May to enter their data in the Partnership's own tool TexPerT. From June to September, the assessment meetings take place for the member companies. In autumn, the review reports are published online. The updated guide "Step by step through the Review Process" offers a detailed guide through this year's process.

Infografik Review-Prozess: 5 Stufen. 1. Risiken ermitteln und priorisieren, 2. Ziele definieren und Fortschritte berichten, 3. Auswertungsgespräch, 4. Anpassung, 5. Veröffentlichung

For companies that have already participated in the Review Process in 2021: The data from 2021 is mainly transferred, needs to be checked and updated if necessary. There is no longer a separate progress report - instead, progress and target achievement are reported for each sector risk on the basis of the 2021 roadmap.

As decided by the PST Steering Committee in September, two alternative formats will also be recognised for the first time as evidence of the implementation of due diligence obligations: on the one hand, the report to the Federal Office of Economic Affairs and Export Control (BAFA) within the framework of the Supply Chain Due Diligence Act (LkSG) and, on the other hand, reporting in accordance with the requirements of the Green Button 2.0.

Member companies that choose one of the two alternative reporting formats only have to submit their Roadmap 2021 progress report via TexPerT this year, also between 1 April and 31 May. There will be no assessment meeting.

The following applies to all members of the Textiles Partnership: In order to bundle the "reporting" on the three core elements, we have integrated core element 2 (upload for the aggregated supplier list) as well as core element 3 (upload of the individual commitments, KPIs) in TexPerT.