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Mehr Bio-Baumwolle auf dem Weltmarkt

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21.11.2022

Mehr Bio-Baumwolle auf dem Weltmarkt

Die aktuelle Marktstudie von Textile Exchange belegt, dass mehr und mehr Baumwoll-Farmer*innen von konventionellem auf Bio-Anbau umstellen. Mit zwei Projekten in Indien setzen sich die Textilbündnismitglieder ebenfalls für mehr Bio-Baumwolle auf dem Weltmarkt ein.
Textile Exchange Organic Cotton Market Report

Seit vielen Jahren kooperiert das Textilbündnis mit Textile Exchange. Vor kurzem veröffentlichte die Organisation den Organic Cotton Market Report (OCMR). Demnach stellen immer mehr Farmerinnen und Farmer von konventionellem Anbau auf Bio-Anbau um. Die Fläche von in-conversion hat sich von 2018/19 bis 2020/21 auf 293.204 Hektar verfünffacht. Textile Exchange konstatiert:

"Based on our estimates, the 2020/21 global harvest saw 342,265 tonnes of organic cotton fiber produced on621,691 hectares of certified organic land, and 180,726 tonnes of in-conversion fiber produced on 293,204 hectares of land in-conversion to organic. Compared to 2019/20, this represents an estimated 37% growth in organic fiber. With overall cotton production reported by ICAC in 2020/21 totaling 24,380,507 tonnes, this means that 1.4% of all cotton grown is estimated to have been organic."

Textile Exchange, Organic Cotton Market Report 22, p.17.
Bio-Baumwolle im Textilbündnis

Das sind gute Nachrichten für die Mitglieder im Bündnis für nachhaltige Textilien. Denn sie haben sich ein gemeinsames Ziel gesetzt: Bis 2025 soll der Anteil nachhaltiger Baumwolle auf insgesamt 70 Prozent steigen, der darin enthaltene Anteil an Bio-Baumwolle auf 20 Prozent.

Im Review-Prozess erhebt  das Textilbündnis die Mengen an verschiedenen Fasern, die die Mitgliedsunternehmen beschaffen. Laut den Zahlen aus dem Review-Prozess 2021 beschafften die Bündnisunternehmen

  • 971.470 t Baumwolle insgesamt, davon
    • Bio-Baumwolle (142.512 t = 14,7%)
    • anders/sonstige nachhaltige Baumwolle (489.620,88 t = 50,4%)

Bio-Baumwolle und anders nachhaltige Baumwolle zusammengenommen ist das gegenüber dem Review-Prozess 2019 eine Steigerung von 32,2% auf 65,1%. Lesen Sie auf der Seite zum Review Process, welche Standards das Textilbündnis als Bio oder anders nachhaltig anerkennt.

Hinsichtlich ihres Ziels für nachhaltige Baumwolle sind die Bündnismitglieder somit auf der Zielgeraden: Es fehlen lediglich 5,3 Prozentpunkte bei Bio-Baumwolle bis zur Gesamtzielmarke von 70%.

Gemeinsames Engagement in Indien für mehr Bio-Baumwolle

Das Textilbündnis setzt sich mit einem Pilotprojekt und mit der which the Textiles Partnership is active with für mehr Bio-Baumwolle auf dem Weltmarkt ein. Beide Projekte laufen in Indien, wo laut OCMR mit 38% weltweit die meiste Bio-Baumwolle angebaut wird.

Das Pilotprojekt Bio-Baumwolle in Indien (Süd-Odisha) verfolgt das oben genannte Ziel unter anderem durch Trainings, gezielte Förderung von Frauen, Unterstützung bei der Umstellung auf Bio-Anbau, GVO-freies Saatgut, Abnahmegarantien und Prämien.

Auch die Bündnisinitiative Bio-Baumwolle  zielt darauf ab, die Lieferkette biologischer Baumwolle fair, umweltfreundlich und wirtschaftlich tragfähig zu gestalten. 11.500 Baumwollproduzent*innen in den indischen Bundesstaaten Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Odisha and Gujarat sollen von dem Projekt profitieren, indem sie auf ökologischen Anbau umstellen. Dazu erhalten die Bäuerinnen und Bauern im Rahmen des „OCA Farm Programme“ farmers will have access to reliable non-GM (genetically modified) seeds, receive training on organic practices and decent working conditions.

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BMZ Conference on Living Wages: From Ambition to Implementation

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22.11.2022

BMZ Conference on Living Wages: From Ambition to Implementation

Conference report
Introduction

On Tuesday, 27 September 2022, the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ) hosted the virtual conference “From ambition to implementation: Scaling successful approaches to living wages in textile supply chains” and convened over 100 participants from politics, business, and civil society to strengthen international cooperation on the way towards living wages.


In her keynote speech, Parliamentary State Secretary Dr. Bärbel Kofler stressed the importance of living wages, especially for women who make up around 70 per cent of the workers in the textile supply chain and laid out BMZ’s efforts to support living wages.

“We have a responsibility towards the people working in the textiles supply chain. The vast majority of the employees are women. They are particularly affected by low wages and precarious working conditions. Let us continue to pool our efforts and let us take the next step towards achieving living wages worldwide.”

Dr. Bärbel Kofler, Parliamentary State Secretary
Panel discussion

During the high-level panel session, speakers from different stakeholder groups discussed the various challenges and key drivers that promote living wages for textile workers in producing countries.

Speakers

Dr. Bärbel Kofler, Parliamentary State Secretary in the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ)

Ms. Christina Hajagos-Clausen, Director, Textile and Garment Industry, IndustriALL

Khalid Mahmood, Executive Director, Labour Education Foundation, Pakistan

Allan Jørgensen, Head of Responsible Business Conduct Centre, OECD

Marco Hühn, Head of Quality Management, CSR, Deuter Sport GmbH

Key messages
  • There is a growing realization that living wages and living income are an essential element of the concept and standards of responsible business conduct (e.g., UN Guiding Principles, OECD Guidelines for Responsible Business Conduct)A smart mix of voluntary and mandatory measures is relevant to support textile brands, retailers and producers to respond to sustainability challenges and pay a living wage to workers.
  • Legal frameworks are necessary to enable a level playing field in which responsible and sustainable business conduct is not a competitive disadvantage.
  • Responsible purchasing practices (RPP) reduce the risks that lie disproportionately with the supplier due to long payment terms, sharp production peaks and prices that neither cover production costs nor allow for the payment of a living wage. Hence RPP are crucial to ensure that manufactures can pay living wages to their workers.
  • Industry-wide collective bargaining is necessary to realize living wages in the economically volatile and rapidly changing textile sector and to give a voice to concerned workers.

Watch the whole opening speech and panel discussion here.

Discussion in Working Groups: Key Takeaways

Following the high-level panel participants discussed what is needed to advance progress on living wages in four working groups:

Working Group 1: Enabling living wages through responsible purchasing practices

Working Group 2: How can collective bargaining lead to the payment of living wages?

Working Group 3: Living wage cases: How retailers, civil society and standards organizations are working together towards living wages

Working Group 4: The role of the financial sector in advancing living wages

Collaboration is key
  • A collaborative approach is a key prerequisite to address the challenges to achieve living wages. No actor will be able to solve all the obstacles alone. To bring about systemic change and move beyond a pilot approach, collaboration and knowledge sharing between actors is indispensable.
  • This includes purchasing companies that work in direct collaboration with their supplier, standard organizations, government actors, unions and civil society organizations.
  • Multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSIs) like the German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles play an important role in bringing the parties to the table, building trust between actors and supporting joint action.
Closing the information gap

An important enabler for making progress on living wages is to improve availability of reliable wage data.

  • Also, supply chain transparency is an important prerequisite for progress on living wages. Transparency also means more disclosure. Only a marginal number of companies currently disclose any information about their payment of living wages.
  • Digital tools to collect and monitor wages and sharing the available data between brands, suppliers and other organizations can strengthen transparency and social compliance.
  • To achieve this transparency, building trust among and between stakeholder groups is crucial.
  • It is also essential to gain information from rightsholders themselves to integrate into the benchmarking process.
Responsible purchasing practices
  • Long payment terms, sharp production peaks and low prices put pressure on suppliers. Responsible purchasing practices can help reduce these negative impacts and have a positive effect on wages – e.g. through fair prices, long-term supply relationships or reasonable delivery times.
  • Expectations and roles of each actor in the value chain need to be clearly defined. By establishing an equal partnership between buyers and suppliers, sustainable and transparent production planning and open costing becomes possible.
  • A common definition of what responsible purchasing practices look like is needed to mainstream efforts and move towards a systemic change. The Common Framework for Responsible Purchasing Practices (see below) can be a reference document for the garment industry.
Right to freedom of association (FOA) and collective bargaining are a key avenue to achieve systemic change on wages
  • Dialogue between employers and trade unions is needed. Workers should have a saying when it comes to discussions about wage level.
  • Brands should engage in creating structures for and supporting dialogue between employers and trade unions.
  • Social dialogue should be used to give employers a better understanding of the rights of FOA and collective bargaining and to highlight the benefits of collective bargaining also for the employer side.
  • There needs to be zero tolerance for FOA violation and access to remedy on such violations. In case of a dispute, remediation and any other corrective action should be supported by brand response.
Summary and next steps

The conference was a great opportunity to take stock, determine where the biggest obstacles still lie ahead and discuss approaches on how they can be overcome.

With upcoming binding legislation such as the German Act on Corporate Due Diligence in Supply Chains and the EU Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive, it is important that the crucial role played by civil society and MSIs in the implementation is recognized and promoted.
Businesses, civil society, unions, and governments are encouraged to:

  • Join MSIs that are working on achieving living wages and actively engage
  • Enhance transparency and build trust between buyers and suppliers by e.g. actively working together with partners, sharing learnings and data
  • Enable responsible purchasing practices by using the Common framework as a guidance (see below)
  • Strengthen labor unions and support freedom of association and collective bargaining in producing countries
  • Promote national minimum wages that secure a decent standard of living
Related activities

BMZ and its partners, many of which were present at the event, will continually work on advancing efforts towards living wages in the textile industry and beyond:

  • A group of MSIs have worked together to develop the ‘Common Framework for Responsible Purchasing Practices’ (CFRPP), as an aligned reference document for the garment
    industry. The Framework provides a common language and alignment on what constitutes responsible purchasing practices. In five principles the framework formulates practices that enable companies to purchase responsibly. Conversely the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative (STTI) has published a White paper on the core principles manufacturers want the garment and apparel companies who buy from them to comply with. In a Learning and Implementation Community (LIC), supported by the BMZ, companies wanting to take new steps towards progress in their purchasing practices, develop solutions and share learnings with peers, experts and supply chain partners over the next two years. Please contact info@cfrpp.org if you want to know more or get involved.
  • Financed by the BMZ, the OECD is developing a practical-action handbook on living wages and income to guide companies in their efforts in global supply chains at the example of the agricultural and textile sector. The handbook will be based on the OECD due diligence framework and will refer to the current legislation on corporate due diligence at national and EU level. An informal expert group including experts from various regions and stakeholder groups is overseeing the drafting process. A public consultation on the draft handbook and the release of the handbook are planned for the first half of 2023.
  • As a multi-stakeholder initiative, the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST) that was initiated by BMZ is a platform for learning and dialogue. It initiates joint projects such as the Living Wage Lab with the aim to support members in developing and implementing individual living wage strategies and to develop scalable solutions together with their suppliers. Find out more about becoming a PST member here.
  • The Green Button, a certification label for sustainable textiles run by BMZ, aims to ensure that producers will be paying living wages in the future. For the new version, the Green Button 2.0, companies are required to carry out a wage gap analysis as part of their risk analysis, develop a strategy to promote living wages at the manufacturing level, begin with its implementation and show concrete progress after two years. Find out more about the certification process and get involved here.
  • Under the umbrella of the Platform on Living Wage Financials (PLWF), financial institutions come together to encourage, support, assess, and monitor investee companies with regard to their commitment to enable living wages and incomes for workers in their supply chains. A guidance document was last updated in 2022 and can be found here. Additionally, the PLWF has published its annual report, which includes the 2022 assessment results for the garment and footwear sector on Oct 17, 2022.
  • ACT is an agreement between trade unions and both global brands and retailers to transform the garment, textile and footwear industry. The actors work together to achieve living wages for workers through collective bargaining at industry level, freedom of association and responsible purchasing practices. Brands that are interested in getting involved can find more information and get in touch with ACT here.
  • The Good Clothes Fair Pay campaign, a European Citizens’ Initiative, calls on the European Commission to introduce legislation requiring that brands and retailers in the garment sector conduct specific due diligence in their supply chain to ensure workers are paid living wages. It builds on the Commission’s proposal for a European due diligence law. You can sign the campaign here.
  • The IDH Living Wage Summit in Brussels on December 7, 2022 is another opportunity for companies and organizations to exchange and discuss how to accelerate and scale up their action on living wages. Register here.
  • Fair Wear Foundation has launched the Fairprice App, which allows fact-based costing as a methodology to support factories and brands to calculate the purchasing price that needs to be paid in order to allow the payment of a living wage. Fair Wear is also offering seminars for suppliers in different producing countries.
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Neuerungen im Textilbündnis

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16.11.2022

Sorgfaltspflichten, Transparenz und Fokusthemen

Neuerungen im Textilbündnis

In seiner Sitzung am 28. September 2022 hat der Steuerungskreis ein neues Konzept für das Textilbündnis beschlossen. In Zukunft konzentriert sich die Arbeit des Bündnisses auf drei Basiselemente:

  1. Implementing due diligence
  2. Transparenz über Liefernetzerke
  3. Addressing focus topics effectively

„In den letzten Jahren haben sich die Rahmenbedingungen für die Wirtschaft allgemein und damit auch für die Textilwirtschaft stark verändert, etwa im Bereich der Regulierung, des gesellschaftlichen und technologischen Umfelds sowie bei wichtigen Kooperationspartnern des Textilbündnisses. Ziel der nun beschlossenen Neuausrichtung ist es, den positiven Beitrag des Bündnisses zum Wandel hin zu einer nachhaltigeren und verantwortungsvolleren Textil- und Bekleidungsbranche zu ermöglichen und unsere Mitglieder dabei bestmöglich zu unterstützen,“ so Noor Naqschbandi, Leiter des Bündnissekretariats.

Implementing due diligence

Schon 2017 beschloss der Steuerungskreis, die Arbeit im Textilbündnis konsequent am Sorgfaltspflichten-Ansatz auszurichten, wie ihn UN, ILO und OECD vorgeben und empfehlen. „Das klare Bekenntnis zum Sorgfaltspflichen-Ansatz hat nicht unwesentlich dazu beigetragen, dass die Bündnisunternehmen deutlich besser auf die aktuellen und zukünftigen Anforderungen bei der Umsetzung von Sorgfaltspflichten und den damit verbundenen Nachweispflichten vorbereitet sind,“ so der ehemalige Leiter des Textilbündnis Jürgen Janssen bei seinem Abschied im September (siehe news article).

Was bedeutet das für die Unternehmen im Textilbündnis? Auch das neue Konzept sieht vor, dass Bündnismitglieder alle zwei Jahre öffentlich darstellen, wie sie ihren Sorgfaltspflichten nachkommen. Das können sie wie gehabt anhand des bündniseigenen Review Process tun. Neu ist, dass das Textilbündnis von jetzt an auch den Bericht an das Bundesamt für Wirtschaft und Ausfuhrkontrolle (BAFA) im Rahmen des Lieferkettensorgfaltspflichtengesetzes (LkSG) und die Berichterstattung gemäß Anforderungen des Grünen Knopfes 2.0 als Nachweis zur Umsetzung von Sorgfaltspflichten anerkennt.

Supply chain transparency

Die Kenntnis der eigenen Lieferkette ist entscheidend, um Missstände zu identifizieren und Maßnahmen einzuleiten, die Risiken mindern und Verbesserungen einleiten. Das Textilbündnis unterstützt die Mitgliedsunternehmen dabei, mehr Transparenz in ihre Lieferketten zu bringen, unter anderem mit einem Leitfaden.

Seit 2020 veröffentlicht das Bündnis für nachhaltige Textilien eine aggregierte Liste mit insgesamt rund 6.450 Produktionsstätten von 23 Mitgliedsunternehmen auf der Plattform Open Supply Hub. Dadurch leistet das Textilbündnis einen Beitrag zur Datenbank öffentlich zugänglicher, zuverlässiger Lieferketten-Informationen und fördert so die Transparenz in der Branche.

Bislang konnten Mitgliedsunternehmen freiwillig ihre Lieferkettendaten für die aggregierte Liste zur Verfügung stellen. Das wird ab 2023 für alle Mitgliedsunternehmen verpflichtend und sie müssen jährlich eine Liste ihrer Lieferanten, insbesondere der Nähereien und Konfektionsbetriebe (Tier 1), zuliefern. Zudem sind sie angehalten, nach und nach mehr Transparenz auch in die tiefere Lieferkette zu schaffen.

Addressing focus topics effectively
Living Wages and Purchasing Practices
Circular economy and climate protection
Gender equality
Grievance mechanisms and remedy

Diese vier Themen identifiziert das Textilbündnis als wesentliche gemeinsame Herausforderungen und Elemente des Sorgfaltspflichten-Ansatzes. Gleichzeitig sieht es hier auch einen besonders großen Hebel für Verbesserungen.

For all four focus topics there is a reference framework, der sich an internationalen Vorgaben und Empfehlungen orientiert und die vom Textilbündnis angestrebten Ziele darstellt. Hinzu kommen „Individuelle Commitments“ der Mitgliedsunternehmen: Anhand einheitlicher Indikatoren kann jedes Mitglied individuell und das Bündnis aggregiert den Fortschritt in den Fokusthemen messen. Die Fortschritte werden jährlich erhoben und veröffentlicht. Details zu den Referenzrahmen und KPI lesen Sie auf der jeweiligen Fokusthemen-Seite, indem Sie auf die Icons oben klicken.

Darüber hinaus werden zu allen Fokusthemen gemeinsame projects der Mitglieder in Produktionsländern umgesetzt. Diese Projekte leisten einen messbaren Beitrag zu den Fokusthemen und zahlen auf die individuellen Indikatoren ein. Die Beteiligung an diesen Projekten ist für Mitglieder ab dem 3. Jahr der Mitgliedschaft verbindlich.

Im November ist ein Call for Proposals gestartet, bei dem Mitglieder Projektvorschläge einreichen können. Auch bei der Mitgliederversammlung am 29. November in Hamburg befassen sich die Bündnismitglieder mit den Fokusthemen und entwickeln Projektideen.

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Mitgliederversammlung am 30. November 2022

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15.11.2022

Mitgliederversammlung am 30. November 2022

Bündnis 2023 - Ab in die Umsetzung!

Der Steuerungskreis hat Ende September eine Neuausrichtung des Textilbündnisses beschlossen. Die zukünftigen Schwerpunkte der Arbeit im Textilbündnis werden anhand von drei Basiselementen deutlich:

  • Implementing due diligence
  • Transparenz in Liefernetzwerken
  • Addressing focus topics effectively

Bei der Mitgliederversammlung am 30. November in Hamburg geht es in erster Linie um die Neuerungen. In Workshops widmen sich die Mitglieder den vier Fokusthemen: Existenzsichernde Löhne und Einkaufspraktiken, Kreislaufwirtschaft und Klima, Geschlechtergerechtigkeit sowie Beschwerdemechanismen und Abhilfe.

Darüber hinaus findet eine Paneldiskussion zum Thema  „Die EU Textilstrategie– zukünftige Herausforderungen und Verpflichtungen“. Dabei wird Brigitte Zietlow vom Umweltbundesamt (UBA) einen allgemeinen Überblick über die EU Strategie für nachhaltige Textilien geben sowie die aktuellen Entwicklungen aus heutiger Sicht vorstellen.

Mitglieder finden detaillierte Informationen zur Veranstaltung und zur Anmeldung im geschlossenen Mitgliederbereich.

Die neue Struktur des Textilbündnisses in der Übersicht:

Weitere Informationen lesen Sie auf der Seite „About us“ und im Factsheet.

program
8:45 am

Ankommen

9:00-09:45 Uhr

Begrüßung und Bericht zu Neuheiten im Bündnis

9:45-10:30 Uhr

Q&A mit dem Steuerungskreis und Bündnissekretariat

10:30-11:00 Uhr

Kaffeepause

11:00-12:30 Uhr

Session 1

1A Focus on: Existenzsichernde Löhne und Einkaufspraktiken

12:30-13:30 Uhr

Mittagspause

11:00-12:30 Uhr

Session 1

1B Focus on: Kreislaufwirtschaft und Klima

13:30-15:00 Uhr

Session 2

2A Focus on: Geschlechtergerechtigkeit

15:00-15:30 Uhr

Kaffeepause

13:30-15:00 Uhr

Session 2

2B Focus on: Beschwerdemechanismen und Abhilfe

3:30-4:30 pm

Input und Q&A mit dem Umweltbundesamt:

„Die EU Textilstrategie – zukünftige Herausforderungen und Verpflichtungen“

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Neue Handreichung zum Integritätsmanagement in Unternehmen

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15.11.2022

Neue Handreichung zum Integritätsmanagement in Unternehmen

Die Verankerung von Integrität in allen Bereichen unternehmerischen Handelns ist zunehmend eine grundlegende Voraussetzung für nachhaltigen wirtschaftlichen Erfolg. Die Allianz für Integrität und das UN Global Compact Netzwerks Deutschland haben daher eine neue Handreichung erarbeitet, die Unternehmen beim Integritätsmanagement unterstützen soll.

Integrität spielt in der öffentlichen Debatte eine immer wichtigere Rolle – auch und insbesondere im Zusammenspiel mit anderen zentralen gesellschaftlichen Zielen von Klima- und Umweltschutz über der Wahrung von Menschenrechten bis hin zur Förderung von Gerechtigkeit. Verbraucher*innen berücksichtigen bei Kaufentscheidungen auch ethische Erwägungen. Gleiches gilt für Unternehmen bei der Auswahl von Geschäftspartner*innen.

Vor diesem Hintergrund können Unternehmen anspruchsvolleren, sanktionsbewehrten Regularien auf nationaler und internationaler Ebene oft nur dann gerecht werden, wenn sie zusätzlich zu Social Compliance Mechanismen Integrität in ihrer Unternehmenskultur verankern.

Trotz der zunehmenden Relevanz der Thematik und dem daraus resultierenden Handlungsdruck sind viele Unternehmen oft unsicher, wie sie Integrität effektiv in Unternehmenskultur und -praxis etablieren können. Die Handreichung „Integrität in Unternehmen. Ein Praxis-Katalog“ der Alliance for Integrity und des UN Global Compact Netzwerk Deutschland soll Unternehmen daher mit konkreten Handlungsempfehlungen, vielfältigen Best Practice Beispielen sowie erprobten Tools bei der Verankerung von Integrität unterstützen.

Hintergrund: Was bedeutet Integrität?

Die Herausgeber definieren Integrität in der neuen Handleitung so:

„Integrität bezeichnet die Konsistenz von Handeln, Werten, Prinzipien, angewandten Methoden und Maßnahmen, Erwartungen und Resultaten. In der Ethik wird Integrität als eine eigenständige Qualität aufgefasst, die sich in einem intuitiven Verständnis von Ehrlichkeit und Aufrichtigkeit mit Blick auf die Motive des eigenen Handelns zeigt.

Unternehmen verwenden den Begriff in der Regel, um verantwortungsvolles und regeltreues unternehmerisches Handeln und dessen Orientierung an allgemein akzeptierten ethischen Standards und Prinzipien zu beschreiben. Genauer verpflichtet sich ein Unternehmen mit einem Bekenntnis zu Integrität im Sinne einer Selbstbindung dazu, die Geschäftstätigkeit, Entscheidungen und Unternehmenshandlungen so auszurichten, dass moralische Grundwerte eingehalten werden.“

Details und weiterführende Informationen lesen Sie im Praxis-Katalog.

 

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Purchasing practices: Common Framework to guide action in the Partnership

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27.10.2022

Purchasing practices: Common Framework to guide action in the Partnership

In future, the "Common Framework for Responsible Purchasing Practices" will serve as a foundation to support members to systematically improve their purchasing practices.

Companies have a duty to conduct human rights due diligence for their international activities and revising their purchasing practices is an important element of this. They have the potential to support and enable improved working conditions, the implementation of living wages and better planning and business sustainability among suppliers.

The Partnership for Sustainable Textiles has developed the "Common Framework for Responsible Purchasing Practices" (CFRPP) together with other multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSIs). The document provides companies and MSIs in the textile sector with a common understanding as well as universal points of reference to adapt their purchasing practices and reduce negative impacts on people and the environment.

The Steering Committee has now decided to make the CFRPP the reference framework in the Textile Partnership and thus the guiding principle for action on the issue of purchasing practices. With this decision, the Textile Partnership is also making an important contribution to applying the CFRPP in practice. Companies can use the document to better fulfil their individual responsibility to establish responsible purchasing practices. The initiatives support this by offering workshops and peer learning in working groups, for example.  

In addition, several European companies have joined forces in a "Learning and Implementation Community". The members share practical experiences and thus support each other in implementing the CFRPP. The aim is to develop workable solutions to the various challenges related to responsible sourcing practices and to communitise concrete best practices.

Common Framework for Responsible Purchasing Practices

Several multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSI) have developed the Common Framework for Responsible Purchasing Practices (CFRPP), a unified reference document for the industry. In addition to the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, the group includes the Ethical Trading Initiative, Ethical Trade Norway and Denmark, Fair Wear Foundation and the Dutch Agreement for Sustainable Garments and Textile (AGT, expired in 2021, a new agreement is being planned). The working group has also consulted with ACT (Action Collaboration Transformation), Better Buying Institute, Better Work and amfori.

The framework recognises and emphasises that the responsibility to respect human rights and environmental standards in textile supply chains cannot be placed solely on suppliers, but that purchasing companies must also take responsibility. Action needs to be taken by purchasing companies to amend their purchasing practices, where these undermine good working conditions.

Further information

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Welcome to the Partnership: WiBU TextilPlus GmbH

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11.10.2022

Welcome to the Partnership: WiBU TextilPlus GmbH

We are pleased to welcome WiBU TextilPlus to the Textiles Partnership.

The company from Schleswig-Holstein offers services and products for all textile needs for major customers in the social sector.

WiBU TextilPlus sees quality and durability as particularly important factors for the production of workwear and home textiles. Therefore, manufacturing and distribution processes are based on recognised and common textile standards. For example, selected production companies manufacture exclusively in Germany. All fabric manufacturers and suppliers are certified and committed to compliance with ecological and social standards.

In addition, the company has been in the Green Button certification process for a short time in order to be able to label their products with the governmental, independent textile seal by the end of the year.

Managing Director Simone Kraus explains: "Function and emotion is the value proposition that customers all over Germany should associate with the WiBU subsidiary. We always try to offer a portfolio of quality products with textile added value for the customer. In this way, we guarantee products with a long life cycle and continuously increase our overall performance based on our sustainable development initiative".

You can find more information about WiBU TextilPlus GmbH at https://www.wibu-textilplus.de/.

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amfori, Fair Wear and PST Join Forces to Tackle Grievances from Shared Factories

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22.09.2022

amfori, Fair Wear and PST Join Forces to Tackle Grievances from Shared Factories

amfori, Fair Wear and the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles (PST) are pleased to announce the signing of a new Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to strengthen their collaboration to jointly address workers grievances from shared factories of their various member brands. This collaboration will initially be piloted for a year, with the objective to improve working conditions in our members’ supply chains and to offer learnings for the industry to align access to remedies.

The UN Office of the High Commissioner for Human Rights (OHCHR) strongly recommends in its Accountability and Remedy Project III that “operators of non-State-based grievance mechanisms cooperate proactively and constructively with each other in order to raise standards and promote good practice with respect to the resolution of grievances arising from business-related human rights harms” .

In global garment supply chains, brands are likely to source from the same suppliers and/or factories. Those brands are often part of member organisations that seek to promote the improvement of working conditions in supply chains by providing (non-judicial) grievance mechanisms.

Production sites where multiple member brands, from different member organisations, source from, offer unique opportunities to pool resources and make a joint impact. With this in mind, and to integrate efforts and avoid overlap, amfori, Fair Wear and PST have agreed to work together to jointly address complaints raised in shared factories. The objectives are to

  • support member brands and their suppliers in resolving complaints
  • align approaches and standards
  • strengthen collaboration among stakeholders
  • provide better (access to) remedy for workers

In line with the OHCHR’s recommendations, this initiative will also help provide a space to test such collaboration between operators of grievance mechanisms, find synergies and align complaint handling, including investigation and remediation steps, across the industry.

In this endeavour, the organisations – in consultation with their main stakeholders – have drawn up a protocol setting out the scope, terms and processes for implementing this collaboration. The protocol does not replace any of the organisations’ complaints mechanisms but serves as an additional “instrument” to escalate incoming complaints whose resolution could benefit from such a collaborative approach While any grievance raised through a channel of the participating organisations may be covered by the collaboration protocol, complaints that are more complex in nature and where the additional leverage and resources provided by the collaboration would allow for better remediation, are more likely to be escalated.

This approach will be piloted for one year from September 2022. Thereafter, learnings and feedback received from various stakeholders during the first year will form the basis for evaluation and adaptation of the collaboration protocol.

Fair Wear has years of experience in handling complaints under its Fair Wear complaints mechanism , that operates in a large number of countries. amfori recently piloted its supply chain grievance mechanism, Speak for Change Programme, in Vietnam and is in the process of rolling it out in other countries. The PST does not have its own grievance mechanism, but promotes mechanisms of other organisations and engages in joint actionto improve access to remedies for workers in their members’ supply chains.

Although amfori, Fair Wear and PST are the first to sign the MoU, it is open for other like-minded organisations to join and learn from this shared experience.

The three organisations look forward to launching this new collaborative initiative to promote better working conditions in their members’ supply chains and learn for better industry alignment on access to remedies.

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Abschied Jürgen Janssen

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